Fitokimia Rosemari (Rosmarinus officinalis) untuk Mencegah Degradasi Kolagen dan Pembentukan Kerutan: sebuah Tinjauan Pustaka
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Penuaan kulit ditandai oleh perubahan struktural dan fungsional yang berlangsung secara progresif, dengan pembentukan kerutan sebagai salah satu manifestasi yang paling terlihat. Penuaan mengganggu keseimbangan antara sintesis dan degradasi kolagen, yang menyebabkan fragmentasi serat kolagen dan hilangnya elastisitas kulit. Senyawa fitokimia alami semakin mendapat perhatian sebagai agen potensial untuk mencegah atau menunda penuaan kulit karena sifat antioksidan dan antiinflamasinya. Rosemari (Rosmarinus officinalis), tanaman aromatik yang banyak digunakan dalam pengobatan tradisional dan formulasi kosmetik, mengandung berbagai senyawa bioaktif dengan potensi manfaat dermatologis. Fitokimia utama yang diidentifikasi dalam rosemary meliputi asam fenolat seperti asam rosmarinat, diterpen seperti asam karnosat dan karnosol, serta flavonoid dan terpenoid volatil. Senyawa-senyawa ini telah menunjukkan aktivitas antioksidan yang kuat dan kemampuan untuk memodulasi jalur molekuler yang terkait dengan penuaan kulit. Bukti dari studi in vitro menunjukkan bahwa fitokimia rosemary dapat mengurangi produksi reactive oxygen species (ROS), menekan jalur pensinyalan inflamasi, serta menghambat ekspresi MMP yang berperan dalam degradasi kolagen. Studi klinis khususnya dari studi suplementasi oral, juga menunjukkan adanya perbaikan elastisitas kulit, kedalaman kerutan, serta biomarker stres oksidatif, yang mendukung potensi translasi fitokimia rosemary pada kulit manusia. Meskipun studi klinis masih terbatas, bukti yang ada mendukung potensi penggunaan senyawa turunan rosemari dalam formulasi dermatologis dan kosmeseutikal untuk mencegah degradasi kolagen dan pembentukan kerutan. Tinjauan pustaka ini bertujuan untuk menelaah studi terkini mengenai komposisi fitokimia rosemari serta mekanisme molekuler yang mendasari peran senyawa bioaktifnya dalam pencegahan penuaan kulit.
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